Cyprus 2011: Lekfosa, the north part of the divided capital

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Lekfosa, the north part of the divided capital

The northern part of the divided capital, or the Turkish part, has more attractions than the South.
Visiting this part after crossing the border at Ledra Street, I like the magnificent Selimiye Mosque. It was obvious that previously it was a great church, but it was akwardly converted into a mosque. Buyuk Han, a caravanserai turned into a commercial center was closed when I visited on Sunday, but I visited again on Tuesday night. It was a nice site. I visited also the Yiyitler Park since I tried to follow Lonely Planet Walking Route. It said that from this park, the North and South neighbourhood looking at each other closely.

the sign seen in the border

ugly part of the city

an alley in the old city

the venetian wall

in the other side of the fence is Republic of Cyprus

a small open hammam

Selimiye Mosque

Selimiye Mosque, converted from church to mosque

my brunch, my favourite Turkish soup

Buyuk Han

Buyuk Hammam

Buyuk Han at night

Selimiye Mosque at night

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Itinerary

4-Nov-11: Arrived at Larnaca Airport at 22:00. Rented a car then drove to Lemesos. Stayed at Lemesos.
5-Nov-11: Drove to Monastery of St.Nicholas of Cats, Akrotiri Salt Lake, Kolossi Castle, Ancient Kourion, then drove to Lefkosia. Stayed in Lefkosia.
6-Nov-11: Crossing the border to Northern Lefkosa. Also wondered around south Lefkosia. Then crossed the border again by car to the North, picked up Gunduz at Ercan Airport, drove to Kyrenia (Girne). Stayed in Kyrenia.
7-Nov-11: Went to St.Hillarion Castle, Bellapais, Cantara Castle, got lost at a small town called Mehmetcik, then arrived in Agios Filon, stayed there.
8-Nov-11: Walking around the hotel in Agios Filon, then drove to the Golden Sand beach. Visited Ancient Salamis, then had a short visit to Gazimagusta, before taking Gunduz back to Ercan Airport. Returned to the South, had a quick visit by crossing the pedestrian border again just to see Buyuk Han, then drove back to Larnaca Airport.

Feed Back

A fascinated island with Roman ruins, nice beaches and divided people of Greek and Turkish.
Generally, the South Greek part (Republic of Cyprus) was more organized and the people are more educated and can speak English.

Crossing the Border between South and North
- Pedestrian crossing at Ledra Street. It was really easy. We just need to pass the South side without checking. At the North side, we have to register our passport and write our name on a visa paper. The visa paper can be used for many times. On the way back to the South, we have to stamp for check out at South side, and at the North side, only passport checking.
- Car crossing at Agios Dometios in LefkosiaIt was also quite easy and smooth. At South side, I just passed without checking. Arriving at the North side, I had to buy car insurance in the Insurance booth, I paid EUR 20 (or EUR 25?!) for 3 days. Then, same with the pedestrian crossing, I had to register in the "Passport" booth. I used the same visa paper I got before. Then I entered the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. I just drove straight till the roundabout with a monument, where I could see tall Turkish and Turk Cypriot flags, then I had to turn left. I went straight till a roundabout with traffic signal, then I turned right for Ercan Airport or Kyrenia. After the turning right, at a big roundabout, I had to turn left for Kyrenia, or straight for Ercan Airport and Famagusta (Gazimagusta in Turkish).

General Information
- Tourist Info
South. There was one in Larnaca Airport, providing good and useful maps (the whole Cyprus map and regional maps) and brochures, and in each major cities there were always ones. The attendants were speaking well English and very helpful.North. I visited ones in the Ledra and Agios Dometios crossing, and one in Kyrenia (Girne). In the crossing ones, even though the boothes were open and maps and several brochures were on the tables, there were no attendants. The one in Kyrenia, didn't open in its opening hours (maybe due to Hajj holiday?!).
- People on the Street
South. Surprisingly, even the old people, or shop owners, almost everyone in the country I approached could speak well English. They were very helpful. Asking for direction help was unavoidable for me since only maps and road signs were not sufficient in several cases.North. Even though they were extremely nice and helpful (often they even stopped what they were doing and went with me to show the direction, also one old lady even invited us lunch) , many people I approached couldn't speak English.

Transportation
- Car Rental
South. There were many international chain Car Rentals in the Larnaca Airport. I chose Thames because they offered the cheapest price and the staff was nice and I could take the car to the North. I paid EUR 115 for 4 days (including EUR 20 airport surcharge, small Chevy car 1400cc). I think reserving online would be much much cheaper (www.larnacaairportcarhire.net). I didn't reserved it online because I wanted to confirm whether I could take the car to the North.
North. I saw few car rentals in Ercan Airport.- RoadGenerally, Southern roads were more well signed both in English and Greek. The roads in the North were signed in Turkish, and many cases were not sufficient.
- Petrol Station. Many.
- ParkingIn small cities or outside cities, basically I could park everywhere, but in a relatively crowded cities like Lefkosia and Lemesos in the South, and Girne in the North, I had to pay for legal parking.

Sightseeing
South
- Lemesos
Only for the location, nearby Trodoos and Ancient Kourion, I decided to stay here one night when I arrived in Larnaca Airport. The sightseeing sites in the city themselves were not worth the reason to visit this city solely. Lemesos Castle, the main attraction was relatively expensive to enter and not much to see, though ones maybe interested in seeing the museum. I saw a couple of nice churches. The small pedestrian path was not that interesting.
- Monastery of Saint Nicholas of the Cats
Not so far from Lemesos, on the way to Kourion. I was attracted by the name and the story behind the site. As I read in Lonely Planet, many years ago, many cats were brought from Egypt and Palestine to Cyprus, because there were many poisonous snakes. The cats were used as bait, if I didn't understand it mistakenly. The monastery itself was not opened to the public. We could only see the garden with lots of cats from outside. But the number of the cats were enermous.
- Salt Lake at Akrotiri, near Lemesos
I visited shortly on the way back from the Cats Monastery. Though nothing but a large area of salt, I could took few nice pictures.
- Kolossi Castle
I visited on the way to Kourion. Worth a short visit, I guess.
- Ancient Kourion
A large area of Roman ruins, with excellent theater facing the sea. Though more or less the similar with Salamis in the North, it was more preserved and well signed and explained than Salamis. Beside the magnificent theater, it has few pillars and mosaics. The view of the beach was nice also.
- Lefkosia, the Old City
The south part of the Old City, called the last divided capital in the world. I think the North part had more attractions. Amongst the few attraction were not-so-magnificent Omeriye Mosque. The famous Omeriye Hammam was so expensive, the entrance fee was EUR 20, scrubbing was EUR 20, massage set was EUR 80. I just saw the lobby part of the hammam. The city was unique for its Venetian wall. There were several more attractions such as churches and mosques. There was also temporary amusement park just outside the wall with a Big Wheel and some other attractions.

North
- Lefkosa, Old City
More attractions then the South, I like the magnificent Selimiye Mosque. It was obvious that previously it was a great church, but it was akwardly converted into a mosque. Buyuk Han, a caravanserai turned into a commercial center was closed when I visited on Sunday, but I visited again on Tuesday night. It was a nice site. I visited also the Yiyitler Park since I tried to follow Lonely Planet Walking Route. It said that from this park, the North and South neighbourhood looking at each other closely. Generally it was more deserted than the South.
- Kyrenia or Girne in Turkish
A little town with beautiful small harbour and a castle. In the harbour, many touristy cafes and restaurants. The view from the Castle was quite nice. Entrance was EUR 12 (for student EUR 2), opened at 8:00, there was occasional performance in the castle.
- St. Hillarion Castle
Really great to visit the Castle on the top of a peak. The castle itself was wonderful and the view from the Castle was great. Entrance was EUR 12 (for student EUR 2). Located just off the motor way on the way to Girne.
- Bellapais or BeylerbeyiA nice little town on the uphill with famous abbey (like a monastery). Entrance to the abbey, TL 12 (for student TL 2), there was occasional performance in the abbey. In the abbey's garden, there was a restaurant.
- Cantara Castle
Followed the coast line to Karpas Peninsula. The castle itself was almost ruined but the view was great. Entrance was EUR 12 (for student EUR 2).
- Agios Filon, off Dipkarpaz
If not stay, maybe it was not worth to drive all along the way just visit the church ruins. Stayed in hotel Oasis at Ayfilon itself was great and good value. It said there is turtle watching June-September.
- Golden Sand beach at Karpas PeninsulaFollowed the way to Apostolos Andreas or Zafer Burnu, I stopped by in a beach with the sign "Burhan's". The beach with golden sand was really a beauty. It said there is turtle watching June-September. There was a sign that nude people might be observed on the beach.
- Ancient Salamis near Gazimagusta
An ancient Roman ruins, with great theater and pillars, located near the sea not far from Gazimagusta. Entrance was TL 12 (for student TL 2).
- Gazimagusta or Famagusta
Didn't have time to explore the walled old city, we just ate lunch and climbed to the city wall to view around the city.

Accommodation
South
- Luxor Guest House (Lemesos), recommended by Lonely Planet, Dorm bed EUR 12.Maybe it was the only backpacker hostel in the South. Old establishment. Dean, an eccentric old American Cypriot was in the Reception when I arrived late night (he also replying emails). Wifi available. Hot shower only up to 22:00. Many expats also stayed. Location was good, in the middle of old city, on the main pedestrian shopping street. No breakfast.
- Sky Hotel (Lefkosia), recommended by Lonely Planet, Single bed EUR 43 without breakfast (or EUR 47 with breakfast). Location was good in the walled old city. Wifi available. Hot shower.
- Hostels in Lefkosia. The HI hostel in Lonely Planet was closed. The mentioned in Cyprus Mail, in Chryssaliniotissa street was closed when I arrived at night, no sign of accommodation.

North
- Motel Elizel (Kyrenia), recommended by ArukikataWent to Cyprus Dorms, but since it was full, the staff introduced us to this nearby motel. The rate was TL 70, single room with double occupancy. Hot shower and TV, but no Wifi, no breakfast. Can't recommend though the location was good near the harbour.
- Cyprus Dorms (Kyrenia)
www.cyprusdorms.com. Even though I didn't stay here because it was full, I could see it was a nice hostel (probable the only backpacker hostel in the North?!). With Wifi. Only TL 15 for dorm bed. Location was good, near the harbour.
- Oasis at Ayfilon (Agios Filon, Dipkarpaz)
As recommended in Lonely Planet, it was really lovely hotel. The setting was wonderful, facing a smile beach just near to an ancient church Agios Filon. TL 75 for double room (2 persons). Breakfast included. Wifi availble in the common space. Highly recommended. The hotel staff came to Dipkarpaz and leaded us to the hotel.

Eating
- Lemesos old city, I saw several nicely decorated cafes and restaurants. I ate doner kebab in a small shop for breakfast, costed me EUR 6.5.
- Akrotiri Peninsula, on the way to Cats Monastery, there were several reasonably priced restaurants. I ate Pork Kebab, really huge volume, costed me about EUR 8.
- Kyrenia. Most of the places were expensive and touristic. Ate at Set Fish, an expensive restaurant in the Harbour recommended by Lonely Planet and Arukikata (mains were TL 40). Many stylish restaurants and cafes in the Harbour.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Lekfosa, the north part of the divided capital

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